Organic products enjoy a good reputation. But are environmentally friendly products really one step ahead in terms of flavour, health and sustainability? MPULSE offers an overview of the organic jungle.
Organic is booming: although there was a slight dip in 2022, sales of organically produced goods in Germany reached a new record of around €16 billion in 2023 - around 5% more than in the previous year, reports the German Federation of the Organic Food Industry (BÖLW). Sales hits include eggs, vegetables and fruit. Demand is also high internationally: Across Europe, an overall increase in sales of 18% was recorded in the period from 2019 to 2022.
According to Ökobarometer 2022, German consumers have three main reasons for buying organic food: species-appropriate animal husbandry, food that is as natural as possible and regionality. Respondents also want a healthy diet, fewer additives and less pesticide residue.
Retailers and wholesalers often offer organically produced goods under their own brand. METRO, for example, has more than 500 organic products in its own-brand range worldwide - of which the wholesaler has developed around 100 items internationally and around 400 regionally.
If you want to buy organic goods, you are faced with a variety of different terms - from "close to nature" to "environmentally friendly" to "untreated". However, according to EU regulations, only foods that meet the minimum standards of organic farming may be labelled as "organic" or "bio". The products in question bear the EU organic label on the packaging - a stylised leaf on a green background. In Germany, manufacturers can voluntarily add the hexagonal German organic label. The key features of both logos are the absence of synthetic chemical pesticides and artificial fertilisers as well as animal welfare.
There are also many other labels, for example from organic farming associations such as Bioland or Demeter, which have stricter requirements in some areas than the EU organic standard. Worldwide, the "Organic" label awarded by the US Department of Agriculture. The The organic standards of the USA and the EU are recognised as equivalent by both sides. However, there are differences: for example, the use of antibiotics in organic livestock farming is prohibited in the USA. In Europe, on the other hand, they are permitted under certain conditions, for example if alternative therapies are unsuccessful.
There is much to suggest that organic products are a good choice from a health perspective. For example, the Federal Environment Agency (UBA) emphasises that the products are comparatively low in pesticides. What's more: "Because they contain less water, organic apples, potatoes and the like contain more nutrients. They also tend to provide more vitamin C and are significantly richer in secondary plant substances (antioxidants), which protect against cancer and cardiovascular diseases."
However, many studies come to different conclusions. For example, a study by the Stanford University found no clear evidence that organic foods are more nutritious or pose a lower health risk. The science magazine "Quarks" says that a balanced diet is ultimately the decisive factor: "In general, a diet with lots of fruit and vegetables is better for your health than relying solely on organic products. Incidentally, instead of worrying about pesticide residues in your food, you should focus on bacteria and fungi: Organic produce is just as susceptible to these as conventional food."
Many consumers swear by the flavour of organic apples and the like. But does organic really taste better? The BZFE says: "Because organic farmers do not use easily soluble synthetic fertilisers, fruit and vegetables grow a little more slowly. A nice side effect: it contains up to 20 % less water, so it often tastes more intense and has a better texture."
In contrast, blind tastings by Stiftung Warentest showed that "products with the organic logo taste just as good or mediocre as those without." The testers found very tasty products in both product groups: black olives and ham, for example, were convincing among the organic foods, while young Gouda cheese and smoked trout fillet were among the favourites among conventional products.
At least in terms of the environment and climate protection, organic products should be one step ahead, right? For many experts it’s clear: organic farming minimises nitrate pollution in rivers, lakes and groundwater. Furthermore, by using organic fertiliser and rotating the crops they grow, organic farmers promote humus formation and soil fertility. Importantly, organic areas are also home to a greater diversity of species, with integrated hedgerows, ponds and meadow orchards providing habitats for a wide variety of plants and animals.
But there are also objections. There is some criticism of the use of copper as a pesticide in organic farming. Similarly, with regard to standards for livestock farming, the EU organic logo has no specific rules for the transport of animals, for example. In another example, a UK study deducted points for climate protection issues. It claimed that, as a result, a 100% move to organic farming in the UK would lead to a rise in CO2 emissions. This is because the lower productivity of organic farming means that, potentially, more food would have to be imported, thereby driving up greenhouse gas emissions. What is more, because of yields that may be lower under some circumstances, organic farming sometimes requires more acreage.
Conclusion: Organic is booming, but opinions differ when it comes to health, flavour and sustainability. Both organic and conventional products have strengths and weaknesses from case to case. The fact is: the organic trend shows that consumers are increasingly focussing on the origin the cultivation and quality of food - and appreciation for food and its production is important in any case.