A new approach to chef training

"The education system is a broken one," says Thomas Imbusch, operator of the Hamburg-based Michelin-starred restaurant 100/200. "Trainees often return unmotivated after the vocational school blocks. What's more, the theoretical level of training is hopelessly outdated. Key topics such as nutritional physiology, for example, are completely missing, even though it is important for future chefs to understand how food affects the body". Frank Damann, Head of Campus Catering at METRO Campus Services, operator of the canteen on Campus in Düsseldorf, shares this view: "Vocational schools need to be modernised. Much of the content is outdated and doesn't take into account current kitchen techniques". This impression is shared by the next generation. Fewer and fewer young people are choosing to become chefs. According to Federal Statistical Office, the number of trainees in the hospitality industry fell from 77,000 in 2011 to 46,500 in 2023. A significant decline that not only exacerbates the shortage of skilled labour, but also highlights the need to rethink training.

Traditional chef training: a system with weaknesses

The traditional training programme for chefs in Germany lasts 36 months and is based on the dual system - theory in vocational school, practice in the company. The three-week blocks at vocational school cover the basics of food preparation, catering and business management topics. Not only are the subject areas outdated, but in some companies the comprehensive teaching of manual skills falls by the wayside, criticises Imbusch: "For many trainers, practical experience consists almost exclusively of working with finished products and convenience items, which means that learning the profession loses some of its fascination. To be a training company, you only have to process 30% fresh products, which is roughly enough for the salad bouquet on the plate". This is also due to the fact that many trainees work in canteens and system catering, where they have to produce as much food as possible with a minimum of staff.

Brandherd-Esskultur-Akademie develops new training programme

For this reason, Imbusch and his wife and business partner Sophie Lehmann founded the Brandherd-Esskultur-Akademie in Hamburg in 2020. "We are not a traditional chef training programme, but rather a craft training programme for restaurateurs with a focus on cuisine, service and business management", explains Lehmann, co-owner and managing director of 100/200. To this end, the academy focuses on mandatory internships at wineries, farms or in manufactories. The curriculum includes workshops on topics such as sustainable catering, modern kitchen techniques and business management. The programme also includes learning various cooking techniques within the four themed areas of game, vegetarian, fish and omnivore. Similar to traditional chef training, the academy programme lasts three years, with trainees dedicating the last year of the academy to their area of interest and specialising. The academy programme ends with a technical paper and an individual project. "This can be a three-course meal for 18 people that spans a culinary theme or a specially developed cookery course with innovative recipes and suitable teaching materials", says Lehmann.

How important is it to rethink chef training?

The concept is not only well received by young chefs, but also strikes a chord with industry experts - including Frank Damann, who sees potential in alternative training programmes. "The entire training programme needs to be completely rethought and questioned", says the Head of Campus Gastronomy. "It's no longer necessary for trainees to memorise garnishes or be able to whip up a hollandaise by hand - the right equipment is available for that", he believes. "Young people are looking for prospects and not outdated curricula. Modern training can make the profession more attractive again, adds Dirk Wittau, Head of Catering at METRO Campus Services. "Training should teach more than just technical knowledge - social skills, teamwork and leadership skills must be an integral part of it. Digitalisation and sustainability should also be integrated into the curriculum". Even if increasing expectations of flexibility and working hours put many young people off training in the catering industry, modernised training offers the opportunity to make the profession more interesting for the next generation. Wittau: "When trainees hear in their job interview that they have to work weekends and evenings, some have already left. We need customised training that takes into account what the next generation wants. Then the profession can offer more prospects again".

While new training paths such as cookery academies offer an alternative to traditional apprenticeships, the question remains as to how they can be recognised and promoted in the long term. Many of these models - including the Brandherd-Esskultur-Akademie - are not recognised by the state, which means that graduates do not receive an official qualification. Without an IHK certificate, it can be more difficult for them to be hired in traditional kitchens or hotels, as many employers insist on formal certificates. Some further training and retraining courses also require a recognised professional qualification. Despite everything: "Academies could significantly raise the standard of training in the catering industry", says Damann.

Whether and how these concepts establish themselves in the industry in the long term, however, also depends on whether they are recognised as an equivalent alternative to traditional training.