Yoshizumi Nagaya: "I want to get a little better every day."

What distinguishesJapanese cuisine from European cuisine?

One big difference: the way of eating. In Japan, you eat with chopsticks, one item at a time - pure and simple. In Europe, people eat with cutlery, everything is put on the plate together and eaten in combination. The textures also differ: the Japanese like it firm to the bite, for example octopus. It is only cooked briefly and remains firm. Europeans prefer softer textures. I like to call Japanese cuisine minus cuisine: less is more. The focus is reduced to the individual product and its taste. European cuisine, on the other hand, is a plus cuisine: lots of ingredients, lots of aroma.

And why did you decide to combine Japanese purism and modern European cuisine at Nagaya?

I learned traditional kaiseki cuisine in Japan and cooked that way at first. But here in Germany, the ingredients and even the water are completely different - harder, more chalky. That totally changes the taste. Japanese dishes simply don't taste the same in Germany as they do in Japan. And my guests wanted to experience something new. In Japan, there is what is known as tea ceremony cuisine, which means that the hosts think for their guests. As my guests at the time were European and mainly German, I adapted my cuisine. For example, I integrated more and more dairy products into my dishes to make the taste more familiar, but without losing my roots.

You came to Germany in 2000 and opened Nagaya in 2003, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2011. How did that come about?

Exactly. I initially worked in a restaurant that unfortunately had to close after six months. I stood there and asked myself: What now? At the time, my colleagues in Japan said that a Japanese chef should stay in Japan. But I wanted to prove to them that I could make it here too. So I opened my own restaurant with the aim of getting a Michelin star. It didn't exist in Japan back then, so that was the benchmark for me.

What motivated you to open Yoshi by Nagaya after Nagaya?

I wanted to get back to my roots - to traditional kaiseki cuisine. More and more Japanese guests were asking for it, and I wanted to show them that I could still do it. When I opened Nagaya 25 years ago, Düsseldorf was not yet ready for purely traditional Japanese cuisine. But things are different today. Many guests have traveled, know the dishes from Japan or from social media and want to try them. Japanese cuisine is on trend.

Yoshi now also has a Michelin star. What does that mean for you?

Yes, unfortunately only one (laughs). More stars would be nice of course, a Japanese chef is never completely satisfied. We always want to keep learning and improving. I am very grateful for the awards, they also motivate my team to keep improving. What counts for me is to keep at it, to get a little better every day. That's why I opened Sankai by Nagaya in Istanbul with partners in 2019, also with traditional kaiseki cuisine. And there was a star there too. I am the first foreign chef in Turkey to be awarded a Michelin star.

Why Istanbul?

My customer manager from METRO invited me to an event at the Gastronometro. That's where I met my current partners, who were planning to open a restaurant in Istanbul at the time. It just fell into place.

Keyword METRO: How do you shop?

I shop at the METRO store once a week, mainly for fresh products such as exotic fruit, vegetables and fish. But the non-food department is also important to me. Whether it's fish or tablecloths, it's very important to me to choose certain items personally when shopping. The product has to speak to me. Once a week, however, I am also supplied with essential goods, such as cleaning products. However, I buy some Japanese products directly from dealers in Japan, as they are difficult to get here, for example sake and Japanese herbs.

Which herbs are these, for example?

Hanaho, for example, which are shiso flowers, and sanscho leaves, or Japanese mountain pepper, also known as kinome. (He stands up and shows us meticulously and aesthetically arranged herbs packed in small wooden boxes). Shiso tastes fresh and slightly sweet, almost like mint. The flowers are pretty and are often used as decoration on the plate - they're even available at METRO. Sanscho has a citrusy and peppery taste with a subtle spiciness.

And you source these herbs directly from Japan?

Exactly. Japanese producers don't just sell to anyone. The business relationship here is fundamental: as a buyer, you first have to prove yourself worthy of the product. The manufacturer wants to know: does the buyer respect my product? What does he want to use it for? Respect for the product is the most important thing. It's similar with Japanese fishmongers and sake vintners. Their product is like their child. That's why the presentation and packaging are so important: the herbs are selected by hand and neatly arranged.

Aesthetics: What role does the presentation of your dishes play?

A big one. In classic Japanese cuisine, it is typical to arrange the products high on the left side of the plate, like a mountain, and lower on the right side, creating a flow. The sun shines on the mountain, which is why you start eating on the left-hand side. Then you eat with the river flowing down the mountain into the valley, from left to right.

What distinguishes your menus at Nagaya from traditional Japanese menus?

A classic kaiseki menu is like music, it builds up slowly, becomes more intense and ends with the most flavorful course. The seasonality is also different: in Japan, the menu changes every month, whereas in Europe it usually only changes four times a year.

Do you have a favorite traditional German dish and have you ever incorporated it into your menus?

Pork knuckle! (laughs) And I also really like dumplings. But no, I leave that to the German chefs, that's their specialty. But Japanese cuisine also uses a lot of pork.

And what is your favorite Japanese dish?

Shabu shabu. It's meat sliced wafer-thin, poached briefly in boiling water and then served with a sauce.