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A different take on sieved tomatoes: from espuma to chickpea curry

Sieved tomatoes are a classic in the kitchen – be it for sauces, soups or pizzas. But there is much more potential in the basic ingredient. Christopher Rogge, a professional chef at METRO Germany, gives five tips on how restaurateurs can score points with their guests using the tomato all-rounder.

Passaged Tomatoes

A classic in the kitchen and an all-rounder: sieved tomatoes 🍅

Tomato and mozzarella different for a change

What's it all about?

  • Recipe ideas with sieved tomatoes
  • Possible uses and refinements
  • Sustainability and trends

'Sieved tomatoes are a real all-rounder,’ says Christopher Rogge, head of the company restaurant on the METRO Campus in Düsseldorf. Many chefs rely on this classic, especially in Mediterranean cuisine – from gazpacho to bruschetta to pasta sauces. But more unusual compositions such as a tomato jelly can also be created in just a few simple steps. To do this, mix the pureed tomatoes with the thickening agent xanthan gum, roll out and cut out. ‘The jelly is ideal for garnishing starters or main courses, giving them that certain something,’ explains the professional chef. Another highlight: tomato espuma. With the help of a cream dispenser and N2O capsules, airy, light textures can be created. ‘The espuma process makes the tomato the star of the dish, not only in terms of taste but also visually,’ says Chris.

Recipe idea: Tomato and mozzarella with tomato jelly and pine nuts

  1. Dice fresh tomatoes and season with onions, olive oil, salt and pepper.
  2. Place sliced beef tomatoes on the tomato and onion mixture.
  3. Cut open the burrata and place it on the slices of beef tomato so that it oozes slightly.
  4. Garnish with tomato jelly and pine nuts.

Want to know the quantities? Chris likes to cook by feel – so his tip is: ‘Follow your intuition and measure out the quantities by eye, rather than weighing them out to the nearest gram.’

Recipe idea: Tomato espuma from the cream dispenser

  1. Heat the sieved tomatoes with the cream, lemon juice and sugar in a pan. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne pepper and paprika to taste.
  2. Dissolve the gelatine or a plant-based gelling agent such as agar-agar in a little water and add to the tomato mixture. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, until the gelling agent has completely dissolved.
    Important: do not allow to boil down, as this will change the consistency and make it too firm.
  3. Allow the mixture to cool slightly and pour into a cream dispenser.
  4. Fill the cream dispenser with an N2O capsule and shake well. Spray into glasses or directly onto plates before serving.

Enhance flavour – Experiment with spices and herbs

You can combine passata with many herbs and spices. ‘Fresh herbs like oregano or thyme have a very different flavour to dried herbs,’ Chris emphasises. He also recommends balancing the acidity of the tomatoes with a pinch of sugar, without making the product too sweet. ‘With exotic spices such as turmeric, cumin or curry paste, tomato purée is also perfect for international dishes,’ he adds.

Refining sieved tomatoes – achieving more with simple techniques

Even classic dishes with sieved tomatoes can be refined with a few simple tricks. Chris advises: ‘Thickening by boiling not only intensifies the flavour, but also ensures a creamy consistency – ideal for ragouts or sauces’. Especially with longer cooking times, such as for Bolognese, the flavours can develop optimally and create a harmonious taste profile. ‘Patience pays off – the difference is enormous,’ emphasises the chef. Another tip: experiment with spiciness. “Freshly chopped chillies go well with many dishes with passata and enhance the tomato flavour.” To check the spiciness, remove the seeds, as these contain most of the pungent substances.

Sustainable and efficient cooking – clever use of sieved tomatoes

Passaged tomatoes not only taste good, they are also practical. ‘Sustainable bulk packs like the ten-litre Polpa Fine from METRO Chef reduce waste and, thanks to the screw cap, can be kept for several days even after opening,’ explains Chris. This is an advantage in large kitchens, in particular, in addition to saving time. ‘There's no need to peel and cook fresh tomatoes – that quickly saves several hours of work.’ He adds that tomato purée is now also recognised in high-end gastronomy: “There is no loss of quality and the product has long since left behind the prejudices of other convenience solutions,” emphasises the chef.

METRO Chef Polpa Fine - with Italian love for tomatoes
MPULSE Originals

METRO Chef Polpa Fine - with Italian love for tomatoes

Polpa Fine - perfectly ripe tomatoes, freshly processed. Produced by Steriltom in Emilia-Romagna for METRO Chef.

Unleash your creativity – inspiration for modern cuisine

Sieved tomatoes are an ideal basis for all forms of nutrition. ‘Sieved tomatoes are a natural product, not a substitute, and therefore perfect for vegan dishes without cream,’ says Chris. But sieved tomatoes are also a good base in international cuisine. ‘From Mediterranean to Asian – tomatoes fit into every kitchen in the world.’ Chris advises chefs who present their dishes on social media to be creative: ‘Unusual combinations such as lentil dishes or curries are not only well received by guests, but also attract attention online.’

Lentil curry with baked vegetables and red cashew cream – ‘Chris cooks’: Watch the video here 📹

Recipe: Chickpea Curry

  1. Sauté finely chopped onions with curry, cumin and garlic in a pan with oil.
  2. Add sieved tomatoes and chickpeas and boil down.
  3. As soon as a relatively thick mass is obtained, add coconut milk.
  4. Finally, season with salt, cayenne pepper, lime juice or coriander.
  5. Add vegetables such as peppers, Chinese cabbage, spinach or carrots as you like and combine with prawns or chicken.

About...  Christopher Rogge

Christopher Rogge is a trained chef and has been an integral part of the METRO team since 2008. His professional career began with an apprenticeship at Bayer in Uerdingen, followed by nine months of basic military service, six months of which he spent working as a chef in the officers' mess. After many years in METRO's catering team, he took over the role of head of the company restaurant on the METRO Campus in Düsseldorf in the summer of 2024. There he leads a team of 14, creates varied menus, organises orders and is jointly responsible for the culinary accompaniment of events. Since the beginning of 2023, he has also been sharing his expertise on social media: In the series ‘Chris kocht’ (“Chris cooks”), he presents creative recipe ideas and current trends with METRO's own brands on TikTok and YouTube. With over 60 videos now available, he reaches both professional and amateur chefs alike.

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