‘We were lost for words at first,’ says Stefan Hummel. When the Michelin Guide announced the new winners of its stars in March 2022, Hummel could hardly believe it – Hummels Gourmetstube in the southern German village of Wischenhofen was among them! The restaurant was opened in 2015 as part of Gasthaus Hummel, where traditional Bavarian cooking has been on the menu for 100 years.
The road to the star was gruelling, not least because of the coronavirus crisis. ‘It was a marathon. Our kitchen team is small – just my sous-chef Michi and I, with my wife Stefanie front of house,’ explains the top restaurateur. ‘The staff shortages in rural areas are even worse than in the cities.’ But the Hummels battled through. ‘They breed us tough here in the Upper Palatinate region, and we put all our passion and energy into our efforts to make it into the premier league.’
Gourmet cuisine, Hummel-style
Hummel, self-styled ‘king of the roast dinner’, is inspired by his parents’ regional cooking but also by other influences such as classic French cuisine. He trained at the Roter Hahn in Regensburg, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2021. He has also worked in other Michelin-starred kitchens, including the Falconera on Lake Constance. In Hummels Gourmetstube, the chef serves upmarket cuisine with the ‘Hummel signature’, as he puts it. ‘We are very particular and don’t let anyone tell us what to do. We cook the kind of food we like to eat. Anything that doesn’t taste good to us is out.’ The testers from the Michelin Guide appreciated this and praised the ‘finesse and bags of flavour’.
The foundation of Stefan Hummel’s success was laid by his parents. His father was a farmer and butcher and ran the inn as a sideline. His Zwiebelbraten, a dish of roast beef and onions, is still very popular today. ‘My father had been a customer of METRO Regensburg since the 1980s – everyone knew and liked him,’ says his 41-year-old son. ‘Every Thursday he would go to METRO and buy everything he needed, from the ingredients for the roast dinners to the decorations for the wedding parties.’ As a boy, Stefan Hummel used to accompany his dad and help him to load the shopping into the trailer.